🔗 Share this article

When compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end names. But, tucked high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This accolade has made the owners completely surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states the family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble shop achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.